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Tsunami or seismic sea waves are generated by:


A) storms at sea.
B) tidal currents in the open sea.
C) breaking internal waves.
D) coastal or submarine earthquakes.

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Unlike other moving things, wind waves travel over great distances in virtually straight lines. This is physically possible because:


A) while the wave is moving, some water molecules are traveling in closed circles.
B) the waves don't move as fast as speeding cannon balls, so the Coriolis effect has no influence on them.
C) waves carry only energy, and energy has no mass, and is therefore not subject to Coriolis deflection.
D) waves curve one way in the southern hemisphere and the other way in the northern hemisphere. Waves only look like they are coming in a straight line from their point of origin. It's all a gigantic optical illusion, actually.

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Describe how a wave breaks on the shore as it transitions from a deep-water wave to a shallow-water wave.

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As wind waves approach shallow waters an...

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Constructive Interference in waves can cause:


A) an occasional wave greater than any noted before or after its occurrence.
B) every other wave to be larger or smaller than those preceding or following.
C) waves to get smaller within 24 hours.
D) waves to double in height every 24 hours.

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The wavelength of a wave is a measure of the highest part of the wave above the average water level.

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Which of these lists is arranged in order from smallest wavelength to longest wavelength?


A) seiches, tsunami, wind waves, tides
B) wind waves, seiches, tsunami, tides
C) wind waves, tsunami, seiches, tides
D) tides, seiches, tsunami, wind waves

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Classification of waves depends on:


A) depth and trough.
B) wave height and wavelength.
C) depth and wave height.
D) wavelength and depth.

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A ___________ is a gravity wave formed by the transfer of wind energy over the water.


A) swell
B) capillary wave
C) wind wave
D) tsunami

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The distance measured from trough to trough of a wave is:


A) the wavelength.
B) the wave height.
C) the wave period.
D) the orbit.

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A seiche is a short wave found in areas of the ocean farthest away from the continents.

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Waves with the greatest propagation rate or celerity:


A) have the longest wavelengths.
B) occur in shallow water only.
C) form when the wind is blowing less than 0.5 nautical miles per hour.
D) have wave periods of less than one second.

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The ultimate height of a wind wave will depend on:


A) the fetch.
B) the length of time the wind blows.
C) the velocity of the wind.
D) all of these

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Near shore, if the wave crests are 200 feet apart, the wave will "feel" bottom when the depth is about:


A) 20 feet.
B) 50 feet.
C) 100 feet.
D) 200 feet.

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Waves at the shore will start to break when the:


A) water depth is about twice the wavelength.
B) crest flattens into a rounded form.
C) wave period increases to 15 seconds.
D) water depth is about four-thirds the wave height.

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What wave form typically carries the greatest amount of energy through the ocean surface at any given time?


A) wind waves
B) tsunami
C) seiches
D) tides

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The diameter of the orbits of water particles in a deep-water wave is equal to the:


A) wavelength.
B) wave period.
C) wave velocity.
D) wave height.

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The energy that causes ocean waves to form is called a disturbing force.

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For a wave, the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave energy will move through the water.

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Waves tend to be parallel to the shore when they break due to the process of:


A) diffraction.
B) reflection.
C) refraction.
D) reaction.

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Celerity is a measure of wavelength and the units are meters.

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